Regensburg: Altmuhltal Bike Trip

Begin in Weißenburg

We took the RB16 regional train from Munich to Weißenburg with our bicycles. The journey normally takes around two hours, although schedules and bicycle rules should always be checked before departure.

Weißenburg is more than a convenient starting point. Its walled old town, market square and Roman history make it worth exploring before setting off. For me, it also had a family connection because my grandfather had learned his trade there many decades earlier.

From Weißenburg, the route leads toward Treuchtlingen, where you join the main Altmühltal cycling corridor. This opening section introduces the rhythm of the trip: modest distances between towns, easy access to food and accommodation, and countryside that becomes increasingly dramatic as you enter the limestone valley.

Treuchtlingen, Pappenheim and Solnhofen

Treuchtlingen is a practical place to stop for supplies before continuing beside the Altmühl. The route soon reaches Pappenheim, where the historic center and castle above the valley create one of the first memorable townscapes.

Beyond Pappenheim, pale limestone cliffs begin to rise more noticeably beside the river. Solnhofen is internationally known for its fine limestone and the discovery of Archaeopteryx fossils. Even without visiting the museum, the quarries and exposed rock formations help explain the unusual geology surrounding the trail.

This was one of the pleasures of the ride for me: the scenery kept changing without requiring difficult climbs. One moment we were riding beside open meadows and the next we were beneath steep rock faces or entering another small Bavarian town.

Dollnstein and Eichstätt

Dollnstein sits between wooded slopes and impressive limestone formations. Its compact center makes an easy coffee or lunch stop before continuing toward Eichstätt.

Eichstätt deserves more time than a typical rest stop. The cathedral, former princely residence, churches and grand Baroque buildings reflect its long history as the seat of a powerful prince-bishopric. The concentration of religious architecture is so striking that the city can feel like a small Bavarian Vatican.

Walk through Residenzplatz, see the cathedral and look up toward Willibaldsburg above the town. Reaching the castle requires leaving the level river route and climbing, but the elevated setting provides a better sense of the valley.

If time allows, Eichstätt is one of the best overnight stops. It has enough restaurants and sights to make the evening interesting without losing the small-city atmosphere that suits this journey.

Through Kinding, Beilngries and Dietfurt

East of Eichstätt, the route continues through river meadows, woodland and villages beneath the Jura hills. Kinding is surrounded by dramatic rock formations and makes another convenient stopping point.

Beilngries and Dietfurt provide historic town centers, traditional inns and practical services. Around Dietfurt, the character of the waterway begins to change as the Altmühl becomes part of the Main-Danube Canal. The trail remains attractive, but the river landscape becomes broader and more engineered.

This middle section is ideal for stopping when something looks inviting rather than following a rigid sightseeing list. We took breaks for Bavarian food, drinks and Italian gelato, which helped make the trip feel like a vacation rather than an endurance ride.

Riedenburg and the Falconry Show

Riedenburg was one of my favorite stops. The town occupies a particularly attractive setting along the water, surrounded by wooded hills and castle ruins.

The climb to Rosenburg Castle takes you away from the flat river trail, but it rewards the effort with broad views over the town and valley. The Falkenhof holds demonstrations with falcons, eagles and other birds of prey during its operating season. Allow enough time to reach the castle, attend a scheduled show and enjoy the viewpoint rather than treating it as a quick roadside stop.

This is also a good place to spend the night, especially if you want to break the journey before the final ride through Essing and Kelheim.

Essing and Kelheim

The route from Riedenburg to Essing is one of its most scenic sections, with water, wooded slopes and limestone cliffs close to the trail. Essing has a small historic center, castle ruins above the valley and a distinctive wooden pedestrian and cycling bridge crossing the canal.

Kelheim marks the point where the Altmühl meets the Danube. Its main landmark is the Befreiungshalle, the monumental circular building commissioned by King Ludwig I to commemorate the victories over Napoleon during the Wars of Liberation. It stands above the town on the Michelsberg and requires another climb, but the building and views make it worthwhile. The monument was inaugurated in 1863 and its design repeatedly uses the number eighteen in reference to the Battle of Leipzig on October 18, 1813. Bavarian Palace Administration

With additional time, Kelheim can become a two-night stop. A boat trip through the Danube Gorge to Weltenburg Abbey is a worthwhile addition, but it requires at least half a day and does not fit comfortably into an already ambitious three-day cycling schedule.

Follow the Danube to Regensburg

After Kelheim, the journey leaves the Altmühl and follows the Danube Cycle Route toward Regensburg. The trail passes Bad Abbach and continues through mostly level countryside before approaching the city.

Arriving in Regensburg feels very different from simply taking a train there. After days of small towns and river landscapes, the towers, bridges and tightly built medieval center provide a real sense of completion. You can ride into the old town, cross or view the Stone Bridge and finish with a meal or drink beside the Danube.

The route works equally well in reverse, but I prefer ending in Regensburg. The city provides more accommodation, restaurants and onward rail connections, while its historic center gives the trip a natural finale.